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Narrow canal near the beach in Alappuzha lined with green trees and small boats

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The Kerala Backwaters

The Kerala backwaters are a connected network of canals, rivers, lakes and channels, and Alleppey is a common place to start. Here is what makes up the system and how to see it.

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The Kerala backwaters in short

The Kerala backwaters around Alappuzha are a network of canals, rivers, lakes and branching channels. Houseboats are one way to use that network, and they are not the backwaters themselves. Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in Kerala, is part of the system, and so are narrow canals in villages that no lake boat reaches. For a stay on the water, start with the Alleppey houseboat guide.

The land beside the water is as interesting as the water. The Kuttanad area is a farming landscape of rice fields, fisheries, garden land and inland waters on drained, brackish delta marsh. This page explains Kuttanad and Kainakary and compares the ways to see them.

2.2 mBelow sea level, for low-lying Kuttanad rice fields
2013Year Kuttanad was recognised as an agricultural heritage system by the UN Food and Agriculture Organization
1 to 2 hoursTypical kayak session in the canals of Kainakary
Boats and houseboats moored along a canal jetty in Alappuzha under a bright sky

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Kuttanad: farming below sea level

Rice fields that lie below the sea.

Kuttanad is a drained, brackish delta marsh used for rice growing, a below-sea-level farming system with rice fields, fisheries, garden land and inland waters. The UN Food and Agriculture Organization recognised the system in 2013. The figure of 2.2 m below sea level applies to the low-lying rice fields. It does not mean that every road or village in Kuttanad lies at the same height, and it is not the height of the whole Alleppey region.

Boat trips are the easiest way to see how fields, fishing and inland waters sit side by side. A houseboat or a motorboat shows you the wider landscape, and a small boat gets you into the narrower channels.

Kainakary: village canals by kayak

A village on the route, not a fixed circuit.

Kainakary is a village in the Kuttanad area and one of the places of interest around Alappuzha. Guided or self-steered kayak sessions run from Kainakary in narrow canals and last 1 to 2 hours. Ask about the price, the group size and whether you can paddle without a guide. Do not count on a standard route or on access to private rice fields. If you want to try this, read the Alleppey tours page for the other options.

Ways to see the backwaters

Choose by time, budget and how much you want to steer.

OptionTimeWhat to know
Houseboat day cruise6 hours, 11:00 to 17:00From INR 9,000 plus GST for up to two guests (example, 2026)
Houseboat overnight stayDeparture around 12:00, check-out around 09:00From INR 10,000 plus GST per boat in the low season (example, 2026); the boat anchors in the evening
Public ferry Alappuzha to KottayamAbout 2 hoursRoughly INR 17 to 29; confirm fare and timetable at the jetty
Motorboat or shikara on Vembanad LakePer hourRates depend on the boat and the number of seats
Kayak in Kainakary1 to 2 hours–
Boat to PathiramanalAbout 1.5 hours by motorboat or 30 minutes by speedboatLanding depends on weather

For most visitors with one day, the public ferry is an inexpensive way onto the water and a houseboat day cruise is the more comfortable one. Pick a night on a houseboat if you want an evening on the backwaters.

Public ferries and Vembanad Lake

State boats run point to point.

The state water transport department runs boats between points on the backwaters. This is a different thing from a private boat, a houseboat cruise or a tourist trip, so do not mix up the fares. The Alappuzha to Kottayam boat takes about 2 hours and leaves from the jetty opposite the KSRTC bus station, with departures spread between roughly 07:15 and 17:15. The fare is roughly INR 17 to 29, and a timetable can change or boats can be cancelled, so check at the jetty on the day.

Vembanad Lake is the largest lake in Kerala. Pathiramanal Island lies in it between Thanneermukkom and Kumarakom and can be reached only by boat. It is a habitat for resident and migratory birds, and a stop there does not mean you will be able to land. Read more on the Vembanad Lake page, and see Kumarakom for the bird sanctuary on the lake.

When the backwaters are best

Average rainfall at Alappuzha, 1991 to 2020.

MonthRainfall
December48.2 mm
January16.3 mm
February42.1 mm
March62.7 mm
June592.0 mm
October357.4 mm

These are averages and not a forecast. December to March is the drier stretch, and October is not a dry month. Weather and traffic on the water can change a route, and in rough weather boat trips can be moved or cancelled. Wear a life jacket where the skipper asks for it and stay seated while the boat moves. The weather page has the full year.

Kerala backwaters: frequently asked questions

What are the Kerala backwaters?

They are a connected system of canals, rivers, lakes and channels along the coast. Vembanad Lake is part of it. Backwaters is the name for the whole system, not for one lake.

Is Kuttanad below sea level?

The low-lying rice fields of Kuttanad lie about 2.2 m below sea level. That figure applies to those fields and not to every road or village in the area.

Do I need a houseboat to see the backwaters?

No. You can take a public ferry, a motorboat or shikara by the hour, or a kayak in Kainakary. A houseboat gives you the longest time on the water.

Can I paddle a kayak on my own?

Guided and self-steered sessions of 1 to 2 hours are offered in Kainakary. Ask whether your group can paddle without a guide before you book.

How do I get to Pathiramanal Island?

Only by boat. It takes about 1.5 hours by motorboat or 30 minutes by speedboat from Alappuzha. Weather decides whether a landing is possible.

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